The King of Italian Cheeses
Parmigiano Reggiano has been produced in the same area of northern Italy — the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and parts of Bologna and Mantua — for nearly a thousand years. It carries DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) status, meaning every wheel must be made in this specific zone, using specific milk, by specific methods. The name "Parmesan" can legally be used for imitation products in some markets, but Parmigiano Reggiano is always the real thing.
How It's Made
Each wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano requires roughly 550 litres of raw cow's milk — milk from cows fed a regulated diet within the production zone. The milk from the evening milking is left to rest overnight; the following morning, the skimmed milk from the evening is combined with whole morning milk. The mixture is warmed in copper vats, natural whey starter is added, and then calf rennet causes the curd to form.
The curd is broken into tiny granules, cooked to around 55°C, and then the mass settles to the bottom of the vat. Two wheels form from each vat. Each wheel is then bathed in brine for about 20 days, and the ageing begins.
Ageing Categories
| Ageing | Designation | Flavour Profile |
|---|---|---|
| 12 months | Fresco | Mild, milky, slightly sweet |
| 24 months | Vecchio | Nutty, complex, some crystalline texture |
| 36 months | Stravecchio | Intensely savoury, crumbly, rich umami |
| 40+ months | Extra stravecchio | Deep, concentrated, almost spiced |
For everyday cooking — finishing pasta, risotto, soups — a 24-month wheel is the versatile standard. For eating with honey and walnuts at the end of a meal, seek out 36 months or more.
Recognising the Real Thing
Authentic Parmigiano Reggiano is easy to verify. Every wheel is marked with the dotted inscription "PARMIGIANO REGGIANO" across its entire rind, along with the producer code and production month. When you buy a piece with the rind attached, you can see this branding. If you're buying pre-grated cheese in a tub, you lose this assurance — buy a block and grate it yourself whenever possible.
The cheese itself should be pale yellow to golden, with a granular, slightly flaky texture. When you press a thumbnail into the cut face, the paste should break with a rough, crystalline edge — not slice cleanly. Those white crystals throughout the cheese are tyrosine, an amino acid that develops during ageing. They are a mark of quality, not a defect.
Storing Parmigiano Reggiano
- Wrap in damp cloth or wax paper, then loosely in cling film. Never in airtight plastic — it sweats and develops off-flavours.
- Keep in the warmest part of your refrigerator (the vegetable drawer works well).
- A properly stored piece will keep for several weeks.
- The rind can be frozen and added to minestrone, broth, or slow-cooked sauces for deep flavour.
Beyond Grating: How to Use It
Parmigiano Reggiano is not only for dusting over pasta. Younger wheels sliced thin pair beautifully with prosciutto and pears. Older wheels broken into shards alongside acacia honey and aged balsamic vinegar make a simple, spectacular cheese course. Shavings over a rocket salad with good olive oil need nothing more. The rind simmered in ribollita or bean soup transforms the broth entirely.
Buy it in a good piece, use it generously, and grate it only when you need it.